Gujarati Textile Traditions
Gujarat, often called the Manchester of the East, has been involved in the textile trade for centuries. Almost all parts of the State specialize in some form of exotic textile weaving.
The stark monotony of the desert landscape of Kutch is relieved by the bright shades of the embroidery created in the region. The embroidered fabrics that come from Banni in Kutch are embellished with mirrors and beads. The Jats are known for their refined embroidery skills. The specialty of the embroidery here is the execution of architectural designs known as the heer bharat. The stitch derives its name from the floss-silk (heer). The stitch, almost three inches long runs parallel to the warp in one part of the motif and to the weft in the other giving it a natural texture. In the center is a mirror secured with chain-stitch. The Mochi community, who it is believed, learnt the craft from Muslim craftsmen, has almost perfected the fine art of embroidering chain-stitch on leather. Motifs derived from Mughal and Persian art as well as designs using animal forms are used extensively in their work. The Ahir and Rabari community, on the other hand decorate the dark background of the fabrics they wear with strikingly vivid embroidery and mirror work. The mirrors are brought into relief by the use of dark colored thread in herringbone or button-hole stitch.
Immigrants from Saurashtra, the Kanbis, prefer the use of white, yellow or saffron base cloth for their garments. While working with chain-stitch in colorful motifs, their workmanship is not nearly as fine as that of the Mochis.
In Saurashtra, the most ancient and noteworthy embroidery was done by the Kathi community. The women of this community showed preference for black cloth embroidered in crimson, violet, golden, yellow and white with greens and blues sparingly used to balance the colors. The main stitch was an elongated darn and chain-cum-interlacing.
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